Not bypassing: This will cause the head pressure to be lower then the rating of the valve and the line going into the receiver is not hot the valve is not bypassing correctly. NOTE — These are also the symptoms if there is a low charge. Before replacing the headmaster that appears as if it is not bypassing, add a few pounds of refrigerant. If the system is low on charge, the additional refrigerant will raise the head pressure and cause the valve to operate.
By Ron Walker. After retiring from the U. Marines and achieving his B. He has been an HVAC technician, service manager, and business owner. Working as a service manager, he spent many years training HVAC technicians to be more technically competent and really understand their trade.
The headmaster can fail in two ways: 1. Try this. The compressor is bad in this one A hard working man's job is never done Well off to bed for 4 hours and back at again tomorrow.
Regards, Justin. Re: Headmaster valve Sorry I ahve to ask but what's a headmaster valve? It's better to keep your mouth shut and give the impression that you're stupid than to open it and remove all doubt.
Re: Headmaster valve A valve that is to maintain head pressure during cold weather months. Re: Headmaster valve Actually, the Flooded Condenser Control valve headmaster is a tradename , serves to short-circuit compressor discharge gas around by-pass teh condenser coil. This serves to slow the refrigerant flow in the condenser coil. The process doesn't "fool" anything. It actually does maintain higher adequate high pressure by making the condenser less effective during low ambient conditions.
Advertantly, the discharge gas by-passing the condenser also serves to warm the receiver. Re: Headmaster valve Much better said. If I knew everything about them I would not have been on the troubleshooting forum asking how to test them The info I provided was given to me by a ref tech as a short explination, I haven't had that much dealing with them as my experience is limited with ice mach.
Thanks for the explination Justin. Re: Headmaster valve Good to see you posting again herefishy. Re: Headmaster valve hello every body this my first day in the forum. Re: Headmaster valve Good to see Herefishy again. Hello to Justin and Sanchezbond Herefishy's explanation of a headmaster is one of many that is perfectly correct.
I have my own explanation that helps me to understand it. You definetely need more refrigerant during cooling ambient temperatures. If you have a remote condenser you need to add roughly ten pounds of refrigerant after you cleared sight glass. This a rule of thumb of course. You shouldn't need much more refrigerant after you have cleared the sight glass on a conventional unit. Hey Lusk, Early to bed early to rise.
I've read those sporlan links you gave me. I remember reading on some thread that Turtle said something about going up to a unit at 10'o clock at night and blocking the condenser with cardboard.
If your pressures come up, tape they cardboard in place and come back the next day and take that headmaster out of there and put in a fan cycling switch. It appears Turtle is not to keen on headmaster controls. I was just looking for some tips on diagnosing these things.
The cardboard method, although crude, works with one little itty bitty hitch. You can create too much drag on the condenser motor. It too is air cooled and the cardboard will cause it to amp up and burn out.
It is good for low ambient conditions and raising your head pressures. It is good for trouble shooting but I would never leave one in place unless absolutely necessary to get a customer through the weekend or night.
In there will be a flow chart on a typical head master control. Simply feel your bypass line to see if it is cool or hot.
You can even use your temperature clamp for taking SH and SC readings. There should be a temperature difference between your bypass line and your hot liquid line. If the bypass line is hot or even the same temp as the hot liquid line before the receiver then your head master valve is in bypass or leaking. If your discharge pressure is above the head master setting then Houston, we have a problem.
Not sure what Britlion is talking about One would guess he is talking about a system that can handle such a load. What do you do if your complete charge is 8 pounds? Getting back I've seen my share of head master power heads that leak internally and you will loose your refrigerant charge by the end of the week. Once you have negated the head master you have one of two choices. You can remove the head master and install a fan cycle control or simply use the fan cycle control until you return with the proper valve.
Cut the darn thing out and so it will look professional.
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